Is Gauge Only a Guideline? Sometimes!

There are very few rules in knitting that cannot be thoughtfully broken. Or maybe they were never rules to begin with. It makes me think of “the pirate code” in the Pirates of the Caribbean films. When first introduced, we learn that the code is meant to be followed. As the movies progress, we learn that the pirate code is more like guidelines than actual rules to follow. What if we were to approach knitting patterns with that same mindset?

Knitting patterns are written to help us make exactly what we see in the photos. But we can also make changes; perhaps you prefer a different cast-on method or maybe you are devoted to a different left-leaning decrease. As long as you know that with experimentation comes the risk of ripping out, you should make your knitting your own!

Patterns for knits that need to be a specific size, such as a sweater or hat, should be followed or very thoughtfully adjusted. But there are other projects that can be tweaked to fit your style. Seth Richardson’s Pearls Kerchief is a prime example that can be played with simply by choosing a different yarn weight, which changes the knitted gauge. This stunning and tidily knit fingering-weight kerchief is a perfect accessory. I plan to make one exactly as written for my daughter to wear over her bouncy curls—this is totally her style.

Seth Richardson’s Pearls Kerchief. Photo by Gale Zucker

For myself however, a larger piece to style around my neck is just what I need for the coming spring. I could accomplish this in a couple of ways, but I’d like to try using a larger yarn weight. What factors need to be considered to do this?

Yarn Substitution

Lucky for me and this experiment, Wool and Palette carries the same fiber content yarn in both the fingering weight that Seth used for his original pattern and a worsted weight. The fiber in both three-ply yarns is a lovely Merino/Rambouillet blend. I was recently introduced to Rambouillet fiber through a handspinning project, and I love the squish and bounce. If I were to change to a different fiber content of yarn, the properties of that fiber would have to be taken into consideration. As an example, a mohair blend with its open halo could obscure the meticulous cable stitches in the pattern.

Seth’s fingering weight version vs my worsted weight sample on size 4 (3.5mm) needles.

Choosing a Needle Size

Changing from fingering-weight to worsted-weight yarn means that I will not try to meet the gauge listed in the pattern. So, I started by knitting a gauge swatch, which is always a good idea. Not only does working a gauge swatch familiarize you with the pattern, but it also tells you how the yarn will drape in the finished project. Seth’s kerchief is densely knitted, but because of the lightweight fabric, it has drape. A densely knitting worsted-weight yarn will be quite stiff.

Even your knitting style can affect the drape or density of the cloth. To find a drape I liked with worsted weight, I worked a swatch on both size 4 (3.5 mm) and size 7 (4.5 mm) needles. The size 4 swatch yielded a denser fabric than the size 7. As this is a piece for wearing around my neck versus on my head, the larger, looser drape is what I am going for.

Click on an image below to view it in full-screen mode.

Worsted weight swatches on different size needles.

Knitting and patterns do not have to be a carbon copy of each other. The joy of creating is in making a project your own, to fit your style by making a piece that will be a favorite and worn over and over. The joy comes in the making. Just like in the Pirates films, after learning the rules or “code” of knitting, you can use patterns as guidelines to generate even more creativity.