Slip Stitch and Texturing: Faina Goberstein’s Pattern Play

A former math professor, Faina Goberstein has authored numerous books, including two on slip stitch, a technique she uses to create interesting textures in her knitted designs. We asked Faina to tell us more about her use of slip stitch, where her inspiration comes from, and how her background as a college math professor influences the construction of her designs.

Farm & Fiber Knits: Faina, we love your use of textures, cables, and repeating motifs! What techniques and fibers are you into right now?

Faina Goberstein: Thank you. I love all kinds of textures, but slip-stitch knitting has been in the spotlight for me for some time. I love it in solid and multi colors. I’ve developed many new stitch patterns and keep playing with more. It is fascinating to see these 3D textures interacting with light and reacting to colors and fiber choices. There are four distinct groups of slip-stitch patterns and I learned to swatch a lot for my designs to determine the yarn and colors. It is hard to predict what something will look like if you do not experiment. I think this is what keeps me working with this technique.

In general, I would recommend using blends of wool with silk to keep the structure and catch the light. For woven stitch patterns and hybrid groups, like you see in the Sunrise Dreams Cowl, I like to use a single-ply—in particular, Silk Blend by Manos del Uruguay or my new favorite, Moonshine by Juniper Moon Farm. Other stitch patterns can be more tolerant to higher twist in the yarn. Color choice is another long conversation that leads to many, many swatches. There is no rule that these patterns follow.

Get a closer look! Click on an image below to view it in full-screen mode.

FFK: Tell us how you used slip stitch in the Butte Meadow Top that you designed for Farm & Fiber Knits.

FG: The wide lace pattern looks very good but was not easy for width calculation for many sizes. I really wanted to use this slip-stitch lace, so I added a small lace pattern on the sides of the top to accommodate for width discrepancy. I also needed to make that additional pattern in similar row gauge as the main pattern. For that, I changed the pattern to include slip stitches. It was a fun task and it worked. I love details, so you can see the neckline trim full of interesting details. Short rows brought the cap sleeve down to have a nice shape.

The Sunrise Dreams Cowl, which can be found in the Farm & Fiber Knits Library, uses a three-color sequence and slip-stitch pattern in a continuous flow. Photo by Gale Zucker

FFK: What was your inspiration for the Sunrise Dreams Cowl?

FG: The modification of an existing stitch and using three colors that looked like a sunrise are the ideas behind this design. I’ve wanted to use my version of this stitch for some time and this was my chance to do it. The three-dimensional structure of this stitch pattern is demanding and not suitable for a gentle sweater, in my opinion—it is perfect for a cowl, though. The borders that frame the cowl had to be substantial and textural, so the fabric settles in the right way and the cowl has a good form as it’s worn.

Faina designed the sunrise pattern so the colors rise from light to more intense, like a sunrise. Photo by Matt Graves

FFK: What do you mean that you wanted to use your version of this stitch? How did the design evolve?

FG: The slip-stitch pattern used in this cowl is the result of my playing with a stitch pattern that I used before. It can be worked in one color, two colors, or three colors as it is in the cowl. I changed the number of stitches and rows in the repeat and was very happy with the look of my swatch. I quickly realized that the stitch pattern needs to be contained, so I made sure that wider textured border will do the trick. The Manos del Uruguay Silk Blend yarn is soft and goes well with the pattern. The colors rise from light to brighter just like sun rises, so it gave me the idea for the name of the cowl.

I also like to incorporate elements in my designs that elevate the knitter’s skills. If you choose to make this cowl, you will not be bored.

FFK: How did you get into knitting?

FG: I was about eight years old when my neighbor taught me how to knit socks. For quite awhile, I had no idea that other things could be knitted. Later on, I learned many skills from books and a special design course that kept me interested in custom design. Knitting was always by my side and eventually it evolved into my second profession.

FFK: Are you a knitter who keeps a large stash or do you purchase for what you plan to knit next?

FG: I definitely have a large stash for personal and design purposes. I never know what idea will come next, but I have the yarn to swatch it.

Learn more about some of Faina's other designs by clicking on the images below.

FFK: How does your experience teaching college math influence your designs?

FG: I think it influences how I teach knitting more than how it influences my designs. I have a unique approach to teaching where I try to put myself in the place of a student in order to see how I need to break down the information I deliver. Every person is different and my experience teaching math helps me to be patient and explain material from different angles. It works for most students and I am happy.

FFK: Can you talk more about how you approach such a clever construction in some of your designs?

FG: For me, designing is a broad field where forms, yarns, textures, colors, fashion, and function come together. On the artistic level, I am fascinated by color combinations and textures that I can bring into knitting using fibers and stitch patterns. I love wearable knitwear that unites fashion and necessity so it’s warm and comfortable. At the same time, to achieve a certain form or construction is almost a mathematical problem that needs to be solved. I love it all.

In her Zafiro Shawl, Faina uses three patterns—lace, slip stitch, and garter stitch—that transition from one to another to show off the colors and drape. Photo by Faina Goberstein

Sometimes my inspiration comes from a simple need to have a cardigan or a hat. So, the process begins with a search for the right style, color, yarn, and details, then sketching and making swatches. Once the idea is more or less settled, calculations begin and adjustments are made according to my swatches in order to produce a flattering garment that I or someone else would love to wear. Other times, I love the texture that I want to marry with a garment or accessories. In this case, I am choosing the form to showcase the pattern.

I get excited about things I see around me as I travel or take a walk. It could be color or shape that I notice, or yarns I see on display. I do not get stuck on one idea—it is pretty fluid for me. My goal is to create something interesting and enjoyable to look at in addition to a good fit. Finishing techniques are very important to me and I believe in learning new skills at all times.

Designing is never the same and it keeps me interested in all kinds of aspects. I teach others how to design and use their skills for inspirational pieces. It is most rewarding to me.

Find out more about Faina’s classes, books, and more on her website at FGDesignsKnits.com. She is also on Ravelry as fgdesigns, and on Instagram @faina.go.

Access Faina's Sunrise Dreams Cowl and the Butte Meadow Top in the Farm & Fiber Knits Library.