Foula Wool—Crofting Small-Batch Yarns in the Shetland Isles

Foula is one of the Shetland Islands, a group of islands off the coast of Scotland that is the northernmost part of the United Kingdom. It lies about 14 miles west of the biggest Shetland island, Mainland. Foula is about 3½ miles long by 2½ miles wide. With five peaks, the Noup, Hamnafield, the Sneug, Kame (the highest vertical sea cliff in Britain*), and Soberlie, the distinctive shape of the island is visible from many parts of Shetland Mainland, offering a slightly different silhouette from each viewpoint.

The distinctive peaks of Foula in the Shetland Islands as seen from the top of Wormadale. Shetland, United Kingdom. Photo by Ronnie Robertson; CC BY-SA 2.0; commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:DistantFoulaIMG1905(19820470505).jpg. Courtesy of Wikimedia Commons

Travel to and from the island is by sea or a very small airplane. It’s often weatherbound, and the inhabitants need to be tough, resilient, independent, and resourceful. Today the human population on Foula is about 35, and they share the island with about 1,000 Shetland sheep, about 60 Shetland ponies, and thousands of birds.

Currently, the average age of the population is in the mid-30s. The ability of the inhabitants to survive depends on having several income streams, such as providing the necessary services that are required by this small community—crewing the ferry; airstrip duties; school staff; road maintenance; and water and electricity provision. Other jobs include crofting, fishing, tourism, and the ranger service that meets and greets visitors to the isle. Foula is an off-grid island and operates its own community renewable electricity network. There are also plenty of voluntary roles required to keep things running smoothly.

Why Foula Sheep and Wool Are Special

The sheep on Foula are an unmodernized version of the Shetland sheep kept elsewhere in the isles. The Foula sheep have not really altered in the last 200 years. The islanders decided in the past not to allow the import of any sheep to Foula, and it is true to say that sheep keepers on the island also do not follow any strict breeding protocol. These choices have meant that the island has a sheep population with a huge gene pool compared to the relatively low number of animals it hosts. “We prefer to let nature play its intended role in the breeding cycle; it is a better model for us than excessive human interference,” according to Magnus Holbourn, one of the island crofters.

The multi-colored sheep native to the island of Foula in the Shetland Islands.

Shetland wool has a unique crimp, which gives a lot of elasticity and loft to the fiber. It is soft, light, strong, and very warm. It is also water repellent, good for insulation, and flame resistant.

Shetland wool comes in various colors, including white, black, moorit (between fawn and dark reddish brown), and shaela (dark steely gray). The climate is harsh and the terrain rough, so the sheep are hardy, and their fleece has evolved to deal with the changing seasons. A spinner from another Shetland Island, Whalsay shared their belief that the quality of the Shetland wool decreased as the sheep’s grazing was improved and felt that sheep that graze on more heather than grass give a better fleece.

Can you see sheep? Grazing sheep blend into their craggy environment on Foula.

Soon after inheriting his sheep flock, Magnus was troubled that his animals endured a potentially uncomfortable and frightening sea journey when they left the island for the sale ring. He decided that breeding for wool was a kinder alternative. At first, he found the income from selling fleeces directly to outside yarn producers was not an economically viable option that would be able to sustain the animals.

He looked for a better solution, and in 2011, Magnus and his wife decided to make their own yarn product and started grading fleeces at home on Foula. They then began to send them away to be spun up into yarn in the mainland UK. This was a big risk, as there was a substantial financial outlay before they saw the first spun yarn the following year. Foula Wool went on sale at Shetland Wool Week 2012 and proved instantly to be very popular.

Traditional Shetland patterns adorn these lovely hats knitted by the author from Foula Wool.

The demand for Foula Wool continued to grow over the following years, and in 2022, the business received funding from the Scottish government to start its own spinning mill on the island. The mini mill was delivered in 2024. As I write, wool is being washed, carded, spun, plied, and balled ready for Shetland Wool Week 2024. It’s good to know that this special wool is finding its own way to sustain those hardy sheep that do such a great job of growing it out on Foula.

*The highest sea cliff in the UK is on St Kilda, but it is not vertical.

Hazel Tindall was born and brought up in Shetland, surrounded by women whose income from knitting was essential. Her teenage years were spent hand knitting fair isle yokes—a great way to learn how to use colors and choose suitable patterns (motifs). She is a knitting designer, international lecturer, and teacher. Hazell has won more than one competition as “The World’s Fastest Knitter,” with a knitting speed of up to 262 stitches in three minutes. She also knits garments for commission. Please visit hazeltindall.com.

For more about Foula Wool, please visit foulawool.co.uk for more information.